Press/Reviews
-
- Boston Phoenix
- By Robert Nadeau
This convivial corner of Hell is actually beer Heaven
- **** out of ****
What act could follow the B-Side Lounge, beloved home of craft-cocktail scholars? Well, how about a bar-restaurant for beer geeks? Now, this doesn't mean just any beers. The more than 40 draught microbrews at Lord Hobo are so recherché that the only brand this veteran restaurant critic had ever tasted before was Dogfish Head, and even that not nearly in the recondite Olde School Barleywine flavor that topped the list with 15 percent alcohol. The microbrews are so obscure that when someone admitted to wanting something "sort of like a Samuel Adams," the server brought her little tasting stem glasses of Bear Republic Nor Cal pale ale and Mayflower Golden Ale. Beer geeks are weirder than computer geeks, even. On a recent weeknight visit, the crowd consisted of 80 percent young men in dark clothes, so the restaurant — done up in dismal red and black — seemed to glow like a particularly convivial corner of Hell. (One reserved for monks who missed confession because they were lingering in the brewery, thinking about adding some cider to the wort or whether to use Kentish or Bavarian hops.)
Unlike Hell, Lord Hobo has rather good food, albeit expensive. But the beers are so fresh and spectacular (it is the beer menu that changes daily) that we really should start there. Perhaps not with Dogfish Head Olde School Barleywine ($7/12 ounces) served in something like an oversize white-wine glass, but there we were. This is a sipping beer, hardly quaffable, sweet as cream sherry, but built on layers and layers of malt with just enough hoppy bitterness to take the edge off.
By comparison, St. Bernardus Abt 12 ($10/12 ounces), at a mere 10.5 percent alcohol and served in an enlarged snifter, was smooth and went right down, with a much drier and more balancing hop aroma (flowery) and bitterness. Ridgeway IPA ($7.50/pint) was almost silken, with a foamier head and a positively sleek body, despite a very decent seven percent alcohol. This one is from England, imported in casks and hand-pumped in the old English real-ale manner, but freshness was the hallmark of everything we tried at Lord Hobo.
The eventual choice of the Sam Adams fan, the Bear Republic Nor Cal ($6.50/pint), had the double hops (cooked in for bitterness, then more "dry-hopped" at the end for aroma) of a Sam, but with the additional winey complexity of an ale, rather than the cool, clean flavor of a lager. Lord Hobo also has some craft cocktails (in case the old B-Side crowd comes back), bottles of beer, and even a decent-looking wine list. But don't be foolish: you're in a glorious garden of lovingly collected draught beers. Take proper advantage.
Of course, you'll need some food to soak up some of the high-octane beers. Luckily, this is solid gastro-pub fare with a capital PUB.
My favorite appetizer was a special on barbecued sweetbreads ($10). Sweetbreads are the lightest and most delicate of organ meats, and while these chunks were breaded and fried in a hot sauce like Buffalo wings, sweetbreads are still a more delectable texture than chicken wings. Five fried sweet oysters ($10) were beautifully presented, each in an oyster shell on a little heap of house-made slaw.
Truffle chips ($9) are English chips (French fries on this side of the water) served in a large paper cone, with the truffle oil worked into a mayonnaise dip. I think this is the best way to get truffle flavor, which reaches even a musk-deprived nose like my own.
Frisee salad ($9) with duck confit is somewhat disappointing, because the chunks of duck have no taste of the cure and not much texture. I preferred the larger arugula salad ($10) with a slice of runny aged goat cheese and little sticks of fried bacon. Mussels ($10) weren't fascinating, but they were plentiful and good to the last one — and last drop of garlicky broth.
With so much ale in the room, it's hard to pass up the "true" shepherd's pie ($15), the verity of which depends apparently on using slices of lamb and large chunks of roast vegetables, including parsnips and carrots under genuine mashed potatoes. I think minced lamb actually works better in the dish, but this was all good eating. The Meyer Ranch hanger steak ($27) brings another huge cone of French fries, plus a bistro cut of prime Angus, sliced like London broil and just as good, with a bit of wine sauce and some roast slices of garlic.
There was no fish on a February menu, so our fishatarian guest had the wild mushroom polenta with grilled vegetables ($18). The polenta was fluffy white cheese grits stuffed into a mediocre under-ripe acorn squash — always buy the squash with brown stems, never green, boys. The plate was made by the mushrooms: hen of the woods, a few slices of porcini, might have been a black trumpet in there.
Lord Hobo has no desserts, but our server gave us complementary tasting stems of Young's Double Chocolate Stout ($6.50/pint), a marvelous sweet brew of malt and real dark chocolate.
The room is insulated against drafts by curtains, and against the outside world by few windows and low lighting. Older beer geeks may want to bring an illuminated magnifier to read the menu, especially the all-important beer list of the day. Tables are dark, high and low, and do turn over, but the crowd has found this bar, even on weeknights. Service was excellent, with our waitress reading some of the tiny type, making key beer recommendations like a sommelier in a French restaurant (but without the upselling), bringing samples, and getting food out in good order. (You know a bar is serious about the beer when the only plasma TV in the place is turned off.)
The food is sometimes pricey for what it is. The owner described the menu as "sensible tough guy food" in one interview, and it's not quite that. It rather reminded me, in the month of the author's death, of Robert Parker's gourmet tough guy, Spenser. A thirtysomething beer-geek Spenser, but like that: gourmand with a little machismo.
- Boston Magazine
- By Amy Traverso
First Bite: Lord Hobo - Cambridge's burgeoning bar scene welcomes new royalty.
With the debut of Lord Hobo, hot on the heels of Trina's Starlite Lounge, it seems Cambridge's Inman/Kendall area has finally achieved enough hipster mass to draw the thirsty hordes from across the river—flannels, fingerless gloves, and all. Occupying the former B-Side space (once ground zero for Boston's cocktail revival), the new nightspot opened to high expectations. Owner Daniel Lanigan ran two cult beer bars in Amherst and Northampton, and his love of quirky, hard-to-find brews earned him plenty of regulars there. The Hobo's imminent arrival was announced to general cheers early last year; however, renovations and licensing took months longer than expected, drawing ire from many a would-be patron.
For beer snobs, the wait was worth it. Lanigan brings a well-curated list of about 80 rare brews—German pilsners, Belgian ales, and the like—half of them on tap. Other local bars may have more variety, but none are so cutting-edge. For the cocktail crowd, a crack team of mixologists serves smart interpretations of the classics (their spin on a Manhattan, the Rambler, comes with a splash of Amaro Nonino instead of the usual Angostura bitters). And the wine list shows real expertise.
But it's the food that's the most surprising. The bar features a menu larded with beer-friendly options like moules frites and shepherd's pie. Here, the kitchen's skill truly matches its ambitions—something all too rare among pubs. Highlights include handcut fries with dipping sauces, creamy deviled eggs, frisée salad with bacon and confit shallots, polenta with root vegetables, and the aforementioned pie. Food prices are higher than at most bars, but reasonable for the quality.Our only gripes: Dishes could generally use more salt, the noise can be deafening, and service can be rushed and too casual—a mismatch when beers can run $10 and entrées more than $20. Still, Lord Hobo is a great place to be a beer aficionado, and a great place to be in your twenties (or to remember what that was like).
- Boston Globe
- By Luke O'Neil
New spin on the old B-Side
For months leading up to the opening of Lord Hobo there was much hand-wringing, naysaying, and speculation in the local foodie community, particularly online, where people are not known for their nuance, or sanity. What would become of their dearly departed B-Side Lounge, the institution whose influence in the bar scene had had such a far-reaching effect? Controversy surrounding the new owner's attempts to deal with the liquor license commission, and significant push-back from the neighborhood over alcohol sales percentages further thickened the plot.
But any questions about whether the new space would be able to find a crowd in its first few months were quickly put to rest when we stopped in on a snowy Monday night to find the room's communal dining tables and bar packed. It's what the Hollywood re-imagining of the B-Side's life story might look like: shiny and new, younger and less gritty, but with the essential plot elements still recognizable.
“It's interesting. We opened at a weird time, around Thanksgiving, so it's been hard to gauge,” bar manager Kevin Scott says. “It does seem like we're busy all the time.” On the day Lord Hobo opened, there was a line down the street at 4 in the afternoon. “There was a lot of anticipation.”
It's not every day a beloved, thriving neighborhood bar shuts down out of nowhere. With that in mind, says Scott, “we kind of wanted to keep a similar vibe to the place as far as it being dark and comfortable.”
The big change, however, comes in the approach to beer: 40 draft lines, three hand pump cask lines, gravity kegs on the bar, and 40 bottles, many of which you've probably never heard of.
“I think what's different is that people aren't coming here for a $2 beer and shot of Jack,” says Scott. Instead perhaps, they'll be having the Mayflower IPA (Plymouth, 16 oz., 6 percent, $6.50) or the mild, zesty Coniston Bluebird Bitter (England, 20 oz., 4.2 percent, $8) or any of a large number of Belgians like Brasserie de la Senne Taras Boulba (Belgium, 12 oz., 4.5 percent, $9).
“It's all pretty much world-class stuff,” says Scott. “Small breweries, craft breweries, micro distilleries. Some of them are esoteric but they're phenomenal.” The California IPAs, for example: The Green Flash West Coast IPA (16 oz., 7.2 percent, $6.50) or the Port Wipe Out (16 oz., 7 percent, $6.50) are mild, bitter beers perfect for enjoying with food.
Lesser-known names from smaller distilleries abound on the spirits and cocktails list as well. It's 20 entries long, and for the first time ever we wanted to try them all. The Soylent Green (green Chartreuse, muddled lemon, mint and cucumber, $10; pictured), a herbaceous whiskey smash variant, is like a greatest-hits reunion of recent bar staples. The Interloper (Plymouth gin, Barenjager, fresh lemon, Lagavulin, flamed orange, $10) takes cues from a Bee's Knees with its honey, gin, and floral notes then rinses the brandy snifter with peaty Scotch for a light kiss of aromatics.
The spirits of the B-Side Lounge past would probably be proud. Even without that cheap domestic and a shot.
“Maybe it's the sign of the times,” says Scott. “People's palates have changed and they're open to trying these beers that are new to them. I was worried we might be losing some of that crowd who are like, I want my can of beer!, but there are so many other places around here where you can do that.”
- Weekly Dig
- By Patrick Main
After much anticipation (and a tongue-in-cheek website poking fun at the delay), Lord Hobo has debuted in a completely renovated space formerly occupied by the B-Side Lounge outside Kendall Square. In addition to the dark wood tables and steampunk-ish lighting, local art graces the walls above the high tables, interspersed with enough plasmas to see the game from any seat in the house.
Sitting down on a recent weekday night for dinner, we’re immediately nearly overwhelmed by the beer list. Forty draft lines, plus two casks and nearly as many bottles are available, all in a great mix of hophead elixirs, big Belgians, Stouts of every variety and nearly any other style you could desire. I opt for an IPA I’d never seen before (and it’s rare that I do outside a beer fest), the Green Flash West Coast IPA ($6.50), which is very good, extremely floral, with a nearly wet-hopped taste. My friends opt for Pretty Things’ first seasonal beer, the Baby Tree Belgian Quad ($5.50) and a selection from the extensive cocktail menu, the Interloper cocktail: gin, honey liqueur, lemon, single malt Scotch and a flamed orange twist that was served up in a snifter. The smoky citrus garnish lent a surprising amount of flavor, accentuated by the glassware, making this chilled offering a winner.
To start, we opted for the deviled egg tasting plate ($5) and an order of the curry chips ($7). The eggs touched upon by the Alström bros. ("Welcome, Lord Hobo," 11.18.09) is a great appetizer to share—with only two of each smooth, distinct flavor (white truffle, avocado and smoked chili), elbow your way to the plate; it’ll be worth your while. The curry with the chips was a different take on the Irish staple: Extremely buttery with a white wine note, it’s hard to describe other than as halfway between a curry and a fondue (without the cheese), but is excellent and must be tried.
For a main course, I had the hanger steak and fries ($19). Served with a red wine demi-glaze and a roasted head of garlic, this thick cut was seared to perfection on the outside and nearly red at the core, with a nice, rich beef flavor. The Maine lobster mac & cheese ($12 app/$18 entrée) featured huge, fresh chunks of meat tossed in a not-too-creamy yet decadent sauce. The quantity and flavor of the lobster, still detectable over the cheese and carbs, sets it apart. Perfectly balanced, it’s some of the best comfort-plus-seafood cuisine around—high marks in a town overrun by this particular combo. Finally, the arugula salad ($10) with Humboldt fog goat cheese and bacon lardons is a simple and surprisingly hearty offering. The spicy baby leafery lightly tossed with a champagne vinaigrette holds its own against the meatier tastes of the dish.
In all, the wait was worth it—the interior is beautiful, the beer list I dare say is the best in the city for variety, all paired with excellent food. I’ll definitely be sliding up to this bar all winter long.
- Blast Magazine
- By Erica J. Marcus
Located just past Inman Square, Hobo plays up its too-cool-for-school vibe right from the get-go. The restaurant is located on the corner, but there’s no sign to tip you off. Instead, look for a bouncer slouched against the wall outside. Half restaurant, half bar, the place is surprisingly 21+. We were ID'd and then ushered in through a red velvet curtain. Once inside, the atmosphere feels hipster-industrial, with bare, low hanging lights, exposed pipes crossing the ceiling and typical Cambridge professionals in their mid twenties to early thirties at the bar. The tables are slightly too close together, but we didn’t mind since our neighbors were kind enough to let us try their truffle fries.
Ah, the fries. Nearly every table in sight had ordered one of the three tempting options: curry chips, gravy chips, or truffle chips. We (me and my culinary educated friend, Meredith) chose the curry chips ($7). Both of us are used to the beyond delicious curry served with fish and chips in England and Ireland, and oh-my-God, this was just as good. The truffle sauce was equally enchanting, and we’re heading back soon for the gravy fries (the neighbors to our left were not as share-happy).
For our second appetizer, we opted for the Maine lobster mac and cheese ($12). The sauce was delicate and mild, allowing the flavor from the lobster to permeate nicely. The pasta was just a little less than al dente and the lobster was a little lacking (but, then again, you can never have enough lobster, especially when it’s drenched in cheese). All in all, a nice starting dish, but not the best thing on the menu.
Our third course was a salad of frisee and duck confit, which seems to have disappeared from the menu. However, it was simple and elegant, and very hard to stop eating, so we’re assuming the two salads ($9, $10) now listed on the menu will be as well.
entrée number one was house made gnocchi with oxtail and squash in a Parma cream sauce ($18). The gnocchi was a little too doughy for Meredith’s liking, but the oxtail was pure heaven. Reminiscent of short rib, it was tender and juicy. The sauce was a nice complement.
I had a hard time deciding on my entrée. I was originally excited for the gnocchi, but Meredith was already schooled in oxtail, so I let her get it (I had no previous oxtail experience, but won’t hesitate to order it again). I was tempted by the hanger steak and fries, but something about the half roast chicken ($19) called out to me. I haven’t been a huge chicken fan lately, always opting for a giant steak instead. But the dish seemed so simple – served with carrots, celery, chippollini onions and roast potatoes — that I figured it would give me a good base for grading the food. As I waited for it to arrive, I was beginning to regret my hasty choice. Why hadn’t I chosen the steak or something a little more unique, like the pan roasted skate? I decided to look forward to sampling the oxtail and tried to ignore my potentially poor choice.
When the chicken arrived, it was huge. I recruited Mere to gobble up the entire leg and pushed it over to one side of my plate. Then, I dug in. I carefully cut off a nice slice with some bad-for-you-but-oh-so-good skin on top. I swirled it around in the gravy and popped in my mouth. Then, it happened. My eyes closed and a shiver went down my spine. This was, without a doubt, the absolute best chicken I had ever tasted. Ever. The meat was juicy and succulent and the skin was as indulgent as it should be. And the gravy – oh dear God, the gravy. Creamy, buttery and just plain heavenly, it elevated the dish from delicious to absolutely fantastic. I practically binged on the meal. People around me were probably staring, but I wouldn’t have noticed. Perfection.
Okay, now that my unabashed praise of the chicken is out of the way, let’s get to the cocktails ($9). After conferring with the waiter to ensure that I wouldn’t choose anything too fruity-sweet, I went for the Cat Wagon (vodka, Chambord, Lillet Blonde, fresh lemon and Proseco). It tasted like a cherry Jolly Rancher. It wasn’t the usual sugary, more than one will make you sick cocktail. It tasted like candy and childhood (well, childhood if your mom was a raging alcoholic). It’s one of my new favorites. Mere ordered the Triple C, which is also a no-show on the online menu. It tasted like a cherry pina colada, and we’re hoping it’s still available.
After we drained our glasses, we each ordered a glass of the 2007 Mitolo Jester Shiraz ($12). The wine list offers a nice variety, but it’s the beer lovers who will return again and again. Boasting over 40 draught beers and 38 bottled, you’ll have to head to Hobo 78 times before you’ll be truly satisfied.
In addition, the service was very good. Our waiter was knowledgeable and happy to give his opinion. He didn’t hover, but the entrées did seem to take a little bit too long to come out (most likely not the waiter’s fault).
Lord Hobo opened November 18 and has since been getting “crushed” just about every night, according to the manager, Daniel Lanigan. It’s easy to see why. The food is definitely in the A range and the drinks were clearly expertly chosen. It’s a fun place to be, offering great food and drink and the opportunity to people watch (and sometimes eavesdrop). It’s not a romantic place, but it still fits the bill for a great date or a birthday dinner with friends. Don’t pass this one by, it totally deserves a try.
Erica J. Marcus is Blast’s culture and style editor
- UrbanDaddy
Ever since the skies darkened after the legendary B-Side Lounge shuttered over a year ago, you've counted the days until you could spend a night within its hallowed walls once more.
We're happy to report the countdown is over.
Feast your eyes on Lord Hobo, and when it opens its doors Monday, it will be a testament to the redemptive powers of resurrection and reinvention—and in Inman Square no less.
Upon entering you'll notice a handsome interior face-lift with everything from handmade banquette seating to an entire new construction of mahogany booths, as well as a rotating 40-tap beer selection (including three hand-pumps for cask goodness), presenting you options like the MA-brewed Mayflower Golden Blonde ale or the Hercule Russian Imperial Stout, a Belgian brew that leaves you thankful it comes served in real-deal 16-ounce pints.
And if mean cocktails like their 92 Siestas (Luna tequila, agave syrup and bitters) require some comfort food done right to complete your marathon booze session, you have housemade Gnocchi With Parmesan Cream and Oxtail and True Sheppard's Pie to dive into, courtesy of a chef from Sorellina and Moo. Meaning you may well find yourself wanting to give up your home and just live on a cot wedged between beer casks out back.
Like a hobo, if you will.
- Thrillist
Aggressive moves can make or break empires, like Napoleon's frigid march to Moscow, Alexander's invasion of India, or your foolish siege on Kamchatka. No one can ever hold Kamchatka! Bravely attempting to conquer the 'bridge, Lord Hobo, soft opening this weekend.
After dominating Western Mass brew culture with the Moan & Dove and The Dirty Truth, the owner of LH is attempting the same moves in Inman, with a wood-heavy temple to beer, specialty cocktails, and traditional Irish/American comfort food in the old B-Side Lounge space, replete w/ deep reddish-brown walls, two massive flat screens, and tables, booths, benches, and a bar made of rich mahogany, which openly admits that money gives it wood. The focus is on the drinkin', with 36 draught beers (Mayflower Golden Ale, Green Flash Hop Head Red, Hercule Stout, etc), 39 wines (Liberty School Syrah, Clos Apalta, Montinore Pinot Gris), and 24 carefully crafted cocktails like the Cat Wagon (vodka, Chambord, Lillet blonde & fresh lemon); Monkey Business (brandy and velvet falernum topped with weisse beer); and white rum w/ St. Germain and fresh lime/mint known as Hot For Teacher -- which would be a lot easier to enjoy if you hadn't gone to a Jesuit school. Foodwise, they've got braised lamb shepherd's pie w/ root veggies and traditional Irish colcannon; a marrow butter-dripped 12oz natural beef sirloin sided w/ Gorgonzola whipped potatoes and watercress; and a saffron risotto paella w/ calamari, mussels, and mahogany clams, which probably got together on the bar.If you're waxing nostalgic for B-Side's hardboiled eggs, LH answers your snacking needs with tasty apps/small plates like gravy chips, deviled eggs w/ white truffle, avocado & smoked chili, Maine lobster mac & cheese, and remoulade-dipped fried sweet neck oysters, a delicacy for which the Okhotsk Sea in Kamchatka is known -- why else would it be worth two Cavalries and an Infantry??
- Pork Chops & Chicken
- By Candice Alström
Lord Hobo has been open for a week now and it has been getting nothing but big praise for the most part from those who have visited the new restaurant so far. I happen to agree with the praise.
Lord Hobo is the new restaurant in Cambridge, Ma. in place of the once famed B-Side Lounge. A former bartender of the B-Side gave the best description of the new bar and restaurant. "If there was a movie made about the B-Side, Lord Hobo would be the Hollywood version of the bar." That's because it's been brightened up, walls painted a muted rustic red, the floor was completely redone, the bar widened and finished with new, beautiful wood, and finished with 30 taps in the middle, and the layout of the room has opened up with the removal of oddly placed dividers and booths from the old B-Side. It's really nice and sterile inside.
We went to Lord Hobo last Monday for the soft opening and had a wonderful time just drinking and sampling the über fresh beers. The Spezial Rauchbier Lager was pouring so good. I drank that pretty much all night on Monday and hung out with some good friends from the neighborhood.
Saturday night we went in for dinner.
A tip for those wanting to try Lord Hobo, go early. Get there early or there will be a line to contend with just to even get in. It's not a huge line or anything to be intimidated by, but getting there early gets you a table right away. The worst I heard anyone has had to wait is 20 minutes. Turn over is good and while you wait, you have 30 beers or a good cocktail list to choose from.
Another good tip is that their wine list offers all choices by the glass with the exception of their reserve list. I find that awesome.
We started with the Truffle Chips. They come with a variety of sauces which we were told change every day. These are perfectly cooked hand cut fries. I usually hate hand cut fries. They are usually too soggy, or cut too fat and big. These were right in the middle of soft, not soggy and crispy. The sauces were a garlic aioli, a vinaigrette, and a sweet and garlicky ketchup. I was more a fan of the ketchup.
The fries also tasted so good with the Spezial Rauchbier Lager. Man that beer is so good and so fresh tasting at Lord Hobo right now. And they give you big mugs of it.
We also ordered a charcuterie plate. It wasn't big or grandiose in it's offerings which happened to be a good thing. It's small but if it were any bigger, ordering dinner might have become a problem.
Then we ordered dinner. Todd ordered the gnocchi with oxtail in parma cream sauce.
I had the Shepherd's pie with braised lamb, root veg, and colcannon. I have to admit I had a hard time with my entree. Todd's was fantastic. It was super rich, hearty, and delicious. Mine on the other hand tasted amazing, but there were some issues with the meal. It wasn't fresh it was reheated. It's a little too expensive for a reheated meal. The lamb was the key. It wasn't hot. It was served warm, and the braised lamb was not soft because of this, it was stiff. The reason I am so torn about it though was because despite being reheated, it still tasted so good. The flavors were excellent. Next time they should make sure it's so hot and have a warning on the skillet. If it comes in a skillet like that, it should be a dead giveaway that this meal is super hot. Sadly it was luke warm. I can't complain too much though because I ate nearly all of it despite my observations about this meal.
Lord Hobo is a really great new place for Cambridge. Lot's of fresh beer, good food, and the way the room is laid out, it's a comfortable place to hang out.
Honorable mentions for the food are the deviled eggs. I tried them on Monday and they were pretty good. The Maine lobster mac'n'cheese on the appetizers has been a huge hit for a lot of patrons so far. I saw the Seared Local Cod, mahogany clams, potato "risotto", leek, trumpet mushrooms being served to a customer right next to me on Monday. It smelled terrific and looked fantastic. The woman who ordered said it was delicious. And I hear the burger is quite fantastic.
(abbreviated version)